I wrote to Jayne the other day when someone posted a query re the H20s and here we are - instructions from the horse's mouth and Jayne I apologise for calling you a horse - but I know what I mean - I will pin this to the top on the forum for a while to give everyone that wants to a chance to cut and paste and keep these instructions
Joanna
Jayne said:
It's true that I do paint with my H2o's onto acetate (with good results)even though they are not designed for this purpose -and I'm always careful in my demos to say so.
If you do want to paint successfully onto acetate
(which is a non-porous surface with a water-based product) you will not achieve a permanent adhesion. I tend to mix my h2o's until they are very creamy and then dab the paint onto the acetate surface, starting from the top of the image and working down. If the paint resists- whilst it is still
wet you simply re-apply your paint until you have covered the whole surface image.
If you have painted your image successfully and then notice a small area you've missed after the paint has dried(which is usually within a few minutes) and then try and re-apply your paint it will lift the first coat off -as you have experienced.
So my advice is to cut out your image first leaving a finger hold to work with, handle as little as possible and attach
finished image to your cardstock a.s.a.p. after completion.
Once onto cardstock the finished image will be fine as no one is directly handling the painted side of image. You must be careful not to use solvent glue when attaching finished work to card but treat as parchment - attach with brads or small amount of pva. I have sample cards on my boards which are over 2 years old now and are still very much intact.
If you love the effect of H2o's on acetate then you might be interested to know that the powdered form of H2o, a product called Polished Pigments is available which has been designed to work on acetate without a problem. You mix these with a mixative and they are fabulous.
Hope this helps!
Jayne
Joanna
Jayne said:
It's true that I do paint with my H2o's onto acetate (with good results)even though they are not designed for this purpose -and I'm always careful in my demos to say so.
If you do want to paint successfully onto acetate
(which is a non-porous surface with a water-based product) you will not achieve a permanent adhesion. I tend to mix my h2o's until they are very creamy and then dab the paint onto the acetate surface, starting from the top of the image and working down. If the paint resists- whilst it is still
wet you simply re-apply your paint until you have covered the whole surface image.
If you have painted your image successfully and then notice a small area you've missed after the paint has dried(which is usually within a few minutes) and then try and re-apply your paint it will lift the first coat off -as you have experienced.
So my advice is to cut out your image first leaving a finger hold to work with, handle as little as possible and attach
finished image to your cardstock a.s.a.p. after completion.
Once onto cardstock the finished image will be fine as no one is directly handling the painted side of image. You must be careful not to use solvent glue when attaching finished work to card but treat as parchment - attach with brads or small amount of pva. I have sample cards on my boards which are over 2 years old now and are still very much intact.
If you love the effect of H2o's on acetate then you might be interested to know that the powdered form of H2o, a product called Polished Pigments is available which has been designed to work on acetate without a problem. You mix these with a mixative and they are fabulous.
Hope this helps!
Jayne
